Sunday, July 13, 2008

Day 11

Sydney, Cape Breton, to Chester, Nova Scotia
548 Kilometers
4300 Total Kilometers

Warning: Today's blog entry contains graphic representations of excessive and reckless behavior related to high caloric intake. Vivid descriptions of the ravenous consumption of mammals and marine life may be offensive to PETA members and marine biologists. Reader discretion is advised.

We decided on two missions for the day: first, to ride good roads in good weather and second, to ride a long way. Both missions were accomplished. A third mission developed along the way; to eat as much as possible while continuing our forward motion.

The weather was perfect. Temperatures throughout the day ranged from 65 to 77 degrees. The humidity was low and the skies were clear. Most of the roads we traveled were twisty and the traffic was relatively light.

We also put in 548 kilometers, which is a big day when only a little interstate riding is involved.

It was important that we cover a lot of kilometers today because we need to be in Yarmouth, Nova Scotia, by 3:00 tomorrow to board the Cat ferry. After today, we are now positioned to make a short ride tomorrow. We will travel on the Cat ferry from Yarmouth to Portland, Maine. The trip takes almost seven hours and we will not arrive in Portland until 10:00 eastern time. We will then to go through customs and eventually check into our motel. We hope US Customs allows Jim and Bill back into the country.

But let's talk about today. Actually, let's talk mainly about what your travelers had to eat today. Brace yourself, it's impressive.

We left the Martin Arms motel at 7:00 in the morning. We did our morning "Bob check" of the room. Bo's dad, the late Bob Johnson, always did a final and through check of the motel room before departure while on family trips. He opened every drawer, checked under every bed and carefully scanned every square inch of the floor - at least twice. We think he did this because Bo can lose anything at any time.

The odometer read128 kilometers when the bikes rolled to a stop in the Tim Horto's parking lot. Another trip to Tim Horton's meant more sausage, egg and cheese biscuits. Now, however, to humor the food police, breakfast included strawberry yogurt laced with blackberries and raspberries.

We added another 256 kilometers before lunch. Today's route included a lot of backtracking over previously-traveled roads today, which put us on path to the Lobster Shack in Salmon River, Nova Scotia. Lunch there the other day was great so a return visit seemed to be in order.

Today's lunch consisted of lobster bruschetta, fish and chips and fettucine with smoked salmon. Deserts included blackberry smash and triple citrus sherbet.

We staggered away from the Lobster Shack and remounted our iron horses.

The GPS routed us through Halifax. There is no easy way through Nova Scotia's largest city. There is no limited access road that rips through Halifax so getting from one end of the city to the other end can be pretty complicated. Our GPS, which speaks with an Australian female voice (our tribute to Nashville's newest mom, Nicole Kidman), did it's usual efficient job.

Once though Halifax we hit the back roads that meander along the south shore on Nova Scotia's Atlantic ocean side. Pretty little seacoast towns dotted much of our path.

We passed several beaches that were full of pale people, many with slightly blueish legs. Don't think Miami Beach. Don't even thing Destin. Some of the beaches encompassed less than a third of an acre of land. They were rocky with a little sand scattered there and there. The water rolls in from the North Atlantic, so it is cold, cold, cold, which explains the blueish legs. Not our idea of a good time but each to their own.

Late in the day we arrived in Chester, Nova Scotia, a little seaside community full of nice homes owned primarily by Americans, who excape to here from summers in New York and Boston.

We were given directions to the Mecklenburgh Inn, a little B&B run by a friendly and acomodating Chester native named Suzi. She placed us in a well decorated room with three single beds. Yes, that's right. We're all nice and cozy (translated, we're crammed in) in a little room not much bigger than the room you had at home when you were a child. It's like summer camp (translated, we never really liked summer camp).

We squeezed three motorcycle loads of luggage into our little room and walked downstairs to do a little bike maintenance. We then walked a couple of blocks to the restaurant.

We dined at Nikki's, a little restaurant attached to another B&B down the street. Our dinner consisted of: tempura scallops, scallop ceviche, and smoked salmon. Those were just the appetizers. The entrees included Lamb Shanks, grilled Halibut on polenta and a two and one-half pound lobster. Deserts included a pavlova (baked merrangue), chocolate cake and creme brulee. It was excessive and wonderful. The gracious staff at Nikki's, more accustomed to the Ralph Lauren/Lily Pulitizer crowd, took great care of these three motorcyclists. The food was incredible. Once again, we found ourselves waddling out of yet another restaurant.

Bill and Bo were happier than Jim because it was Jim's turn to pay for dinner.

Instead of climbing back aboard the bikes as we did after lunch, we took a long, and much needed walk though Chester's seafront downtown.

Once back to the Mecklenburgh Inn we climbed up the stairs and grabbed hammocks and rocking chairs on the second floor balcony. After 548 kilometers and two obscene meals we didn't last long on the balcony.

It was off to bed for a night's sleep before our last day in Nova Scotia.

It was a good night's sleep. Jokes about the small room notwithstanding, the Mecklenburgh Inn is a comfortable, attractive place that we would love to stay in again.

Photos for Day 11 will be posted soon. we didn't have time this morning to do so.